2000FCW C-lens shutter won't load

[2000FCW]

Hi, I hope you're reading this out of hands-on familiarity with the Hasselblad 2000FCW and can therefore help me.
If not, then perhaps this illustrated explanation may pause your investing a large amount of money in a camera which can go wrong beyond possible or economical investigation and repair.

I bought this from a dealer with a central shutter C-lens attached as a cheaper way of having in effect a 500 series independent of the battery i.e. not for the high speed focal plane shutter. The irony is that I'm left with the latter potentially working if this problem can't be identified and repaired.

It worked fine with this lens and as designed was purely mechanical not requiring the 6V battery in order to function.
After lying dormant for less than a year the camera stopped cocking the lens shutter which means the lens could not be removed.
A good technician released the lens and serviced it, he noted that some camera internal corrosion was visible.
As I couldn't get a price for a positive identification of the issue I couldn't take it further. You can see some metal surface discolouration.

So here is my 2000FCW which I'm unable to use. I've not seen exploded drawings or internal photos of this model.
Hasselblad Customer Support (2022 Request 39032) wouldn't release the Service Manual shown "as this type of info is confidential". I've managed only to find two specific illustrated Service Updates for the 2000FCW. Has anyone kept a copy of the 2003FCW/2000FCW Service Manual?

The camera as you see it open with mirror raised has only been possible because the electronics are still operating its shutter protection mechanism brought into action by removing the film back or by Push and Release of the "PR" annotated pin protruding top left from the body. There is very little length to this pin and I do wonder if it eventually needs adjusting. The other film fogging interlock is annotated DS (dark slide).

So where can I start?

The shaft attached to the lens shutter key through a bevel gear does not rotate, the key can be rocked ever so slightly but would not rotate the shaft either anti or clockwise to the red dot during my investigation.
Using the double exposure facility in C-mode to rotate the winding knob offers some resistance from the knob small arrowhead mark to the final larger arrowhead position. In F-mode not so much resistance is felt so perhaps the shaft and key are not engaged but as I mentioned the shaft and key will still not rotate in both modes. It does seem unlikely that such light movement from B to C on the dial can be disengaging the shaft mechanism?
Additionally the mirror does not raise and nor will it remain locked up in position 0 achieved with the winding knob removed.
The mirror was raised flat for photos by gently fingering the bar up from the 45 degree mirror position. So the mirror only ever drops
from the raised position with a "ping".

At no time does the shutter release button work even though it moves and interlocks with the DS.
The rear film advance cog for the film back does operate in both C and F modes.

I've attached a photo I found of a winding mechanism however this is from a 500 series with vertical blind. But perhaps someone may identify and describe some common parts for the shutter shaft and mirror ops.

I carefully removed the bottom internal pressed metal cover which you can see flipped over. It is well profiled in order to sit as low as possible and so has to be "teased out" by raising one side to the diagonal position with clearance.
The battery was not fitted when poking around just in case the shutter sprang back.
I noticed that a flat metal arm was out of the guide slot and so this has been lifted which allowed correct position and movement (marked with an arrow in front of the magnet coil).
Beneath the shutter shaft is a smaller shaft with a cog pictured. This is quite shiny compared with the shutter bevel gears.

If there should be any movements of the visible components inside which would indicate to me what may be wrong I'd like to know.

The red and white status indicators do show after certain operations.
Apart from winding, the secondary and (attached) shutter curtains only move by the PR action or sometimes but not always by moving the speed dial.

Certain things happen during F-mode operations, sometimes after the next turn of the knob and so I've abandoned trying to describe them because my main wish is for this camera to work again in C-mode with the lens I have.

I would welcome comments from 2000FCW owners or technicians. It seems obvious that the chassis needs removing from the case.


There is a video on YouTube by Fix Old Cameras on separation of the outer shell of a 503CW but this is simpler than the 2000FCW and has a vertcal blind. I sadly don't know how to contact Fix Old Cameras.


Thankyou for reading my Hasselblad V-System Thread

 

[2000FCW]

I should correct my error and now say that "light movement from C to B on the dial can be disengaging the shaft mechanism?"

I should add to "Beneath the shutter shaft is a smaller shaft with a cog pictured. This is quite shiny compared with the shutter bevel gears."
that this does not move nor push out the very small firing pin into the C-lens shrouded lever.

 

[2000FCW]

Hi, I hope you're reading this out of hands-on familiarity with the Hasselblad 2000FCW and can therefore help me. If not, then perhaps this illustrated explanation may pause your investing a large amount of money in a camera which can go wrong beyond possible or economical investigation and repair.

I bought this from a dealer with a central shutter C-lens attached as a cheaper way of having in effect a 500 series independent of the battery i.e. not for the high speed focal plane shutter. The irony is that I'm left with the latter potentially working if this problem can't be identified and repaired.

It worked fine with this lens and as designed was purely mechanical not requiring the 6V battery in order to function. After lying dormant for less than a year the camera stopped cocking the lens shutter which means the lens could not be removed. A good technician released the lens and serviced it, he noted that some camera internal corrosion was visible. As I couldn't get a price for a positive identification of the issue I couldn't take it further. You can see some metal surface discoloration.

So here is my 2000FCW which I'm unable to use. I've not seen exploded drawings or internal photos of this model. Hasselblad Customer Support (2022 Request 39032) wouldn't release the Service Manual shown "as this type of info is confidential". I've managed only to find two specific illustrated Service Updates for the 2000FCW.

The camera as you see it open with mirror raised has only been possible because the electronics are still operating its shutter protection mechanism brought into action by removing the film back or by Push and Release of the "PR" annotated pin protruding top left from the body. There is very little length to this pin and I do wonder if it eventually needs adjusting. The other film fogging interlock is annotated DS (dark slide).

So where do I start?

The shaft attached to the lens shutter key through a bevel gear does not rotate, the key can be rocked ever so slightly but would not rotate the shaft either anti or clockwise to the red dot during my investigation. Using the double exposure facility in both C and F modes to rotate the winding knob offers some resistance from the knob small arrowhead mark to the final larger arrowhead position.
Additionally the mirror does not raise and nor will it remain locked up in position 0 achieved with the winding knob removed. The mirror was raised flat for photos by gently fingering the bar up from the 45 degree mirror position. So the mirror only ever drops from the raised position with a "ping".

At no time does the shutter release button work even though it moves and interlocks with the DS. It has no resistance. The rear film advance cog for the film back does operate in both C and F modes.

I've attached a photo I found of a winding mechanism however this is from a 500 series with vertical blind. But perhaps someone may identify and describe some common parts for the shutter shaft and mirror ops.

I carefully removed the bottom internal pressed metal cover which you can see flipped over. It is well profiled in order to sit as low as possible and so has to be "teased out" by raising one side to the diagonal position with clearance. The battery was not fitted when poking around just incase the shutter sprang back. I noticed that a flat metal arm was out of the guide slot and so this has been lifted which allowed correct position and movement (marked with an arrow in front of the magnet coil).
Beneath the shutter shaft is a smaller shaft with a cog pictured. This is quite shiny compared with the shutter bevel gears and does not move or push out the very small pin into the C-lens shrouded firing lever.

If there should be any movements of the visible components inside which would indicate to me what may be wrong I'd like to know.

The red and white status indicators do show after certain operations. Apart from winding, the secondary and (attached) shutter curtains only move by the PR action or sometimes but not always by moving the speed dial.
Certain things happen during F-mode operations, sometimes after the next turn of the knob and so I've abandoned trying to describe them because my main wish is for this camera to work again in C-mode with the lens I have.

I would welcome comments from 2000FCW owners or technicians. It seems obvious that the chassis needs removing from the case.

There is a video on YouTube by Fix Old Cameras on separation of the outer shell of a 503CW but this is simpler than the 2000FCW and has a vertcal blind. I sadly don't know how to contact Fix Old Cameras.


Thank you for reading my Hasselblad V-System Thread

 

[coldborezero]

I have only owned 500's and 503's.

While I have no experience with this particular model body, if I were to see that degree of corrosion around the electronics inside a modern camera I would immediately suspect that it affected the electronics to the point the camera was not economically feasible to repair. I suspect that a proper repair would require essentially stripping the camera interior, removing all corrosion from the metal parts, replacing a number of springs, and bench testing the PCB's.

My best WAG is that you have an issue which cannot be appropriately addressed by the owner and even if a repair shop were willing to attempt the repair they wouldn't want to provide a guarantee and the cost would exceed the price of a replacement body.

However, as I said, just my personal opinion.

 

[2000FCW]

Thanks for your thoughts based on your 500 series owner experience. If I can be given a procedure for withdrawal from the case I'll know better, it might be immediately obvious and better still it might be a 500 series part.