A12 Film Back Insert Compatibility

[josh]

I understand that it is ok to have mismatched film inserts, but do I need to stay within a particular vintage of film back when I'm mixing backs and inserts? For instance, if I have an insert from an A12 back from before the darkslide holder, can I put it in one of the newer A12 backs that does have the darkslide holder? I'm not talking about the old style peephole backs. I'm specifically talking about A12 backs of various vintages.

Thanks!

Josh

 

[polypal]

As long as the back accepts the insert without trouble there is no reason not to use inserts of different date.
It is not the insert but the frame of the back that is the critical part for correct alignment of the filmplane.

Most filmbacks that have seen normal use during 5-8 years will perform better after a check up and alignment of the film plane.

All filmbacks that were subject of a mechanical overload like a fall need to be checked for correct alignment.

 

[josh]

Thanks for your reply.

Few more questions. Will an A16 inserts fit in an A12 back or A32 inserts in an A24 back? I assume that the inserts just hold/wind film and that the counter is built into the back, correct?

I guess I can't use an A24 insert in an A12 back because the pressure plate won't be set properly. Is that a correct assumption?

I'm coming from a Contax 645 where inserts and backs are interchangeable. Don't want to mess something up on the hasselblad.

Thanks!

Josh

 

[josh]

From what I've read on this forum, the film backs with the A12 on the release are newer than the backs with the black dot, and yet on keh the black dot release backs are more expensive. Are the black dot backs more reliable? Better build quality?

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Josh

 

[photosbyth]

Give KEH a call. they can usually find the answer for you on why one item is pricer than another. Usually has to do with condition, matching inserts, etc..

 

[polypal]

Film backs are the part of the system that wears most.
This means later backs with probably less mileage are more expensive.
The other reason later backs are more in demand is the number of upgrades they have.

In general look for backs not older than 1986.
These backs have the latest improvements.
1986-1994 backs have the number 12, 16 or 24 on the release knob.
In 1994 the knob is fitted with a piece of black leatherette.
The model is indicated by a small sign on top of the back reading A12 6x6 etc.
In 1996 the first A series backs with dark slide holder appear/
These backs are the current model.

 

[josh]

Thanks for the responses. I did call KEH and he in fact told me the same thing that the backs they call "Black Dot Release" are newer than the releases that have 12, 16, 24. How were the backs prior to '86 marked? I've seen backs on eBay marked with the stylized "V" on the release. They must be older?

Coming from the Contax system, I'm accustomed to having multiple inserts loaded with film, and then during a job, rather than switching the whole back, I simply swap-in a new insert. This is faster than having to insert the darkslide, remove the back, install the new back, remove the darkslide, then secure the darkslide. Seeing on this forum that using mismatched backs/inserts isn't a problem, I concluded that I could do the same thing with the Hasselblad. The gentleman at KEH discouraged me from doing so. He said there is a difference between using a mismatched back/insert that have been confirmed to work together and doing what I described above.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Josh

 

[polypal]

I am glad KEH agrees with me


Swapping a loaded back is a matter of seconds.
Fitting an insert can take longer, inserts were not made to do fast swaps.

You can not remove/fit an insert with the film transported to the first frame without exposing the film to daylight.
If you do not transport the film to the first frame you loose time because you have to crank the film to the first frame.

Hasselblad is a different system than Contax.
Each has its weak and strong points.

 

[josh]

Hasselblad is a different system than Contax.
Each has its weak and strong points.

I agree. When in Rome, do as the Romans. Better to adapt. It will become second nature with time.

You can not remove/fit an insert with the film transported to the first frame without exposing the film to daylight.

I always load till the arrows on the paper are at the start mark. How do you load to the first frame?

 

[polypal]

I always load till the arrows on the paper are at the start mark. How do you load to the first frame?

You must have missed quite a few exposures this way.

Lining up the arrows on the film with the mark on the insert is correct.

After that:
Fit the insert to the housing and crank the film with the crank on the RH side of the housing till the crank is blocked.

Just to avoid any misunderstandings: this is the procedure to load A12 etc magazines.