How to check a camera?

[ilarbs]

I've been trying to get my hands on a Hasselblad system and had the dissapointment of buying a broken one (auxiliary shutter). The seller was decent enough to let me return that one with full refund.

Now I bought another one. This one keeps jamming and only fires if I hold the winder tense. It also seems like the pre-release crank is stuck and it had massive marks in the house from trying to unjam it previously. Well, I however had a bad case of curiosity so I managed to break the house even more which of course means no return. Well. Thats what it is.

What I'd like to know before buying my next house is, how do I check its function properly? Can I fire the house without lens or magazine attached? Anythin in specific I should look for? If the lens cocks and fires by itself, is it ok? Can I look for anything else on the lens (besides the obvious scratch and fungus)? Any help regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

It shouldn't be that hard really. It's a camera. Cock and fire. Check. Ok. But my experience of it makes me nervous, am I doing something wrong here?

Am I facing a case of bad luck or is the reputation as a solid system overly exaggerated? Do it need frequent service for it to be a thrustworthy companion? Is it maybe a good idea to by from dealers instead of private auctions?

Learning a lot from this forum, thank you!

 

[wbulte]

Yes, you can exercise a body without lens or back attached.

 

[polypal]

You can release a body without a lens or film back attached without any problems.

What you can do yourself:

Release the camera and check the flaps of the auxilary shutter. They should open completely without obstructing the path from the lens.
Let go of the release button, the flaps should close quickly without any hesitation.

If you are operating on a budget think of the money you can save by spending a bit more on a good body than buying several ones that need work.

A trained repairman is able to get an idea what the body he has in his hands needs by releasing it a couple of times.
He listens to the sound the camera makes and touches the mirror to get an idea of the condition of the the mirror foam.

 

[ilarbs]

Thank you for your answers.

It's probably wise, as polypal states, to invest in a good body rather then buying a lot of half-broken stuff. I however find it difficult to rate a body myself and I don't know any trained repairmens. I do live way up in the country-side so it's too far getting to a repairman as well. But I know a little bit more now from your advice, thank you.

 

[polypal]

Check this forums classified section.
From time to time there are cameras in good condition for sale.
You can also put an ad in if you are after a specific camera.
Buying from forum users gives you a better chance to buy a good camera.


Paul

 

[ilarbs]

Yes, I'll keep my eyes open. Maybe I'll put up an ad as well in due time.

I've been thinking about price.. is it reasonable to hope for a 500 c/m body in decent shape for around £200-250? Just the body, no screen, winder or wf.

 

[polypal]

I do not like to brag about items I am selling but look here:

http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5632

A 500 CM with Acute Matte, late model WLF, winding crank.
The body is fitted with the last upgrades like Palpas anti reflection coating etc.
Price is less than 300 GBP including 6 months warranty.

Without WLF and AM the body sells around 180 GBP.
The WLF and the AM will bring 170-200 GBP.
I do not like to cannabalise a nice original camera.
That is why I offer this 500CM with the items that belong to it.

The bad news:
There is already a buyer for this body who prefers to buy this camera with a 80 CF lens.

 

[ilarbs]

That's a beatiful one, been looking at that earlier.

Thank you very much for your kind help. I will keep my eyes open and see how it turns out.