Need Nodal Points

[michaelhcothran]

Paul or anyone -
Do you have the nodal points for CF lenses?
Specifically 40 CF FLE, 60, 100, 180, & 250 lenses.

I had them some years ago, but darned if I can find them now.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[michaelhcothran]

I found 3 of them -

100mm - 32.9mm
180mm - 97.3mm
250mm - 125.5mm

I still need the 40 CF FLE & 60 CF.

Zeiss' site lists those for the latest CFE/CFi lenses, but not sure if they would correspond to the older CF's.

Michael

 

[dh7lk]

See attached screen shot.
Vor Filmebene = Distance Nodal to film level
Hinter Frontlinse = Distance Front lens to Nodal

Regards
Lutz

 

[michaelhcothran]

Thanks, still need the 60 CF. Anyone got that?

Also, the 40 listed is the 40 CFE. Is it the same as the 40 CF FLE other than the contacts? If there's any change in the lens (optical or barrel cosmetics), the figure listed will be incorrect for my lens.

 

[bensonga]

Working on a panoramic project Michael? Maybe gathering material for Jurgens pano calendar?

Gary

 

[michaelhcothran]

Working on a panoramic project Michael? Maybe gathering material for Jurgens pano calendar?
Gary

Trying to get more resolution out of my CFV16 back, which, by the way, just came back from repair today - 5 weeks and 2 days turn around - nothing to brag about in my opinion.
RRS is very expensive for their pano set ups, and not sure I want or need to go that route. I've done some "eyeballing" with the lenses, and seem to be ok with CS3 stitching, but I'd like to be a little more accurate if I can.
I plan to try some 2-, 4- and 6-frame shots for a 24x32 or 24x36" size (170 ppi, 255 ppi, and 340 ppi respectively), and 4-frame and 9-frame shots for 24x24" size (255 ppi & 340 ppi respectively).
Currently I get 170 ppi for 24x24's, and while it certainly is adequate, I've always noted some lack of fine detail.

Can't afford a larger back or new system, so just trying to make the most of what I have. I've been spoiled by the file sizes and detail I get with scanning 6x6 film.

Michael

 

[michaelhcothran]

Trying to get more resolution out of my CFV16 back, which, by the way, just came back from repair today - 5 weeks and 2 days turn around - nothing to brag about in my opinion.
Michael

PS - Hasselblad did kindly send me Phocus to install, but my OS is too old to run it. I'm running Mac OS X v 10.4.11, and this needs 10.5 minimum.

 

[fotoroberto]

Paul or anyone -
Do you have the nodal points for CF lenses?
Specifically 40 CF FLE, 60, 100, 180, & 250 lenses.

I had them some years ago, but darned if I can find them now.

Thanks,
Michael

They can be found easily by moving camera front/back until You cancel the parallax in horizontal movement of the camera around vertical axis.
Simply put, some two points of different distance must be aligned on camera finder/ground glass while You turn it around.

 

[michaelhcothran]

Yes, but much simpler if I had the exact measurement. All I need is the 60 CF. The 60 CFi version is listed on the Zeiss site @ 32.2mm, but not sure if the CF and CFi versions are the same lens barrels or not.

 

[jotloob]

Yes, but much simpler if I had the exact measurement. All I need is the 60 CF. The 60 CFi version is listed on the Zeiss site @ 32.2mm, but not sure if the CF and CFi versions are the same lens barrels or not.

I have looked up the CZ - SITE , the data sheets for the various lenses .

Michael , I wonder how you set up a nodal point of 32,2 mm ? ? ?
How do you make shure , it is not 32,4 mm or 32,0 mm and , do you think the nodal point is that critical ? ? ?
Can you please describe how you do your setup ? ? ?

Thanks .

Jürgen

 

[michaelhcothran]

Michael , I wonder how you set up a nodal point of 32,2 mm ? ? ? How do you make shure , it is not 32,4 mm or 32,0 mm and , do you think the nodal point is that critical ? ? ? Can you please describe how you do your setup ? ? ?
Thanks .
Jürgen

You're right of course about that much accuracy, and stitching programs can do a lot with out-of-alignment images, so I'm not too worried. I have done the visual test in the past lining up vertical and horizontal lines, then moving the camera back & forth, and up & down, until they don't move. It does me fine, but a much more involved process compared to just measuring the distance. If I could remember exactly where on each lens the nodal point was when I did this in the past, I wouldn't be having this inquiry, but it's been a while since I've stitched, and I just can't remember for each lens.
I have a nice thin metric ruler, and if I can come close to 32mm, I'll be that much better off. There is an EXACT spot, but slight variations on either side can still be handled by modern software. The problem is trying to get an accurate measurement from the front vertex, which on most lenses does not protrude past the front of the barrel, making it difficult to know exactly where to put the ruler.
Worse case scenario is I'll go out this weekend, find a suitable subject with vertical and horizontal lines, and re-figure. This time I'll write down where the sweet spot is for each lens!!

Michael