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Suggested Hasselblad for a Hasselblad Novice ??

J

Jez(UK)

New Member
Hello there,

This is my first post, and am hoping for some help.

I did do a search beforehand in case someone else had already asked this question and didn't pick up anything.

I have both a digiital and film SLR. I'm seriously thinking about going to medium format since I'm using film more than digital and want more quality, which I don't believe I'm ever going to get out of the 35mm system.

I am VERY new to Hasselblad, and medium format generally.

I shoot Landscapes mainly, and some still life.

I know next to nothing about the Hasselblad systems, apart from what I can read off Wikipedia (which states model number but no real differences).

I use almost always a Tripod, Cable release, and a spotmeter. I like to take my time when taking shots.

What Hasselblad Model would you recommend. And in particular what lens. In 35mm terms I am happy with 24mm.

So, as far as I'm concerned I need one body (I'm not sure what metering they come with but I'd anticipate using my Spot meter mostly anyway), one lens (a 35mm film "24mm" equivalent) and the Prism Finder.

Could someone please give me their recommendations ??

And what sort of prices I'd be expected to pay ??

I'd really appreciate *any* advice (even if it's a link to go someone else for the answers !).

Many thanks in anticipation.

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
Jez(UK) said:
I shoot Landscapes mainly, and some still life.

What Hasselblad Model would you recommend. And in particular what lens. In 35mm terms I am happy with 24mm.
Click to expand...

For the 24mm equivalent you will be looking at a 40mm Distagon. I recommend the CF version of that lens, not the older C version. Not that the C version is bad, but it is bloody heavy and uses rare and expensive B104 filters. The 40mm CF won't be cheap, the C version is considerably less expensive. I own a CF40FLE. FLE stands for Floating Lens Elements, basically a seperate distance selection ring to optimise image quality for close-up versus infinity.

That said, and being a landscape guy myself: I would recommend you seriously look at a 50mm Distagon as well. I have used a C50, a CF50 and now I own a CF50FLE. You will most likely find the 40mm a bit on the 'wide' side, the 50mm is much more general purpose in this sense.

I find I have my 50 almost always on the camera as a sort of standard lens. The 40 is always in my backpack too. The rest of the lenses (80, 150, 250) I carry based on what I think I am going to need. The 150 almost always remains at home, more for portrait stuff than anything else in my book.

There are ample examples of shots made with the 50 and 40mm on this forum, just go and look around.

For landscapes you might want to look at acquiring a A16 film back. That will give you 16 exposures 4.5x6cm on a 120 rollfilm. The A12 gives you 12 exposures 6x6 (ok... 56x56mm).

Wilko
 
Thanks Wilko for the reply.

Yes, in the meantime, I have been looking on Hasselblad's website, perhaps the 50mm will be better and not too extreme.

What body would you recommend ??

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
body:

I will recommend all mechanical bodies, the classic 500C/M is all you need and is also the cheapest. If you want to spend more money and go for a newer body get yourself a 503CW or a 501C/M

Prices go from £200 for a well used 500C/M to £800 for a good 503CW...

Keep in mind that the 503CW is the only model that's still available new and goes for £1600
 
Thanks CS_foto,

I've been doing a bit of investigating today and have seen that if I really wanted to keep it cheap and simple (which I do really) but not TOO old, I could go for a;

PM-5 Prism, 501c/m, a 50mm Distagon, and an A-12 back.

Any ideas how much a package like this would cost ??

BTW, I'm not too sure what the differences are between a 501c and a 501c/m (from what I've seen so far it's about ages and the vignetting in the viewfinder ??). Essentially, I'd like to buy the newest camera I could afford without it getting into silly money.....

Once again, thanks to all of you for your advice.

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
Thanks cs_foto,

That's a real eye-opener and a real first for me.

Seems as though eBay prices are more than what the retail shops are selling theirs for......

Learnt a lot there.

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
Please use the pm function of the forum to give lists with URL from traders.

The forum does not object to the occasional mentioning of a trader to put users on the right track.
Lists with several users are too much.

Keep in mind paid banners with these urls are part of the forums income to make this all possible.


Forum moderator
 
polypal said:
Please use the pm function of the forum to give lists with URL from traders.

The forum does not object to the occasional mentioning of a trader to put users on the right track.
Lists with several users are too much.

Keep in mind paid banners with these urls are part of the forums income to make this all possible.


Forum moderator
Click to expand...

no worries I'll keep that in mind,

just thought that it would have been nice if someone had told me in a simple post what I learned in almost 2 years looking for second hand stuff while living in London....
 
My vote would be a 500 or 501 cm with either the 40 or 50mm lens. If you get a 500cm, upgrade the focusing screen to an Acute Matte. - These cameras are mechanical work horses that are extremely dependable.
 
Jez(UK) said:
Thanks Wilko for the reply.

Yes, in the meantime, I have been looking on Hasselblad's website, perhaps the 50mm will be better and not too extreme.

What body would you recommend ??

Kindest regards,

Jez
Click to expand...

I'd get a 501CM. At least you want a body with a the bigger mirror. You will like that with extension tubes or longer tele lenses. For the price delta between the older 500CM and the 501CM I would take the latter, more modern, body. Added (but invisible) bonus is that the 501CM mirror mechanics are more advanced/robust. 500CMs by now typically need their foam mounts of the mirror exchanged. That is specialist work and $$ (or lots of quid in your case ;-). If the foam mounts are deteriorated enough the mirror will no longer (reproducibly) return to a 45 degree angle, which obviously bad news when it comes to focusing.

The 501CM should come standard with the more modern / brighter AcuteMatte focusing screen. The 500CM originally had the older, dimmer screen. Screens are user-exchangeable so a 500CM might have an AM. I personally love the AM with the split-image focusing aid and checkerboard pattern to align horizons etc to. But the screen preference is a very personal one, check before you buy one!

I have a 501CM (main workhorse) and a 500CM (fully refurbed) as backup body. Not that I ever needed a backup body, but hanging around in the middle of the US Midwest a spare does give piece of mind. I also have a motor-driven 500ELX which I hardly ever use.

Wilko
 
I recommend that you go with the 50mm CF lens [multicoated and a newer shutter than a C lens].

I have a 503 CX that has been trouble free. It does not have the gliding mirror however I have no problem with the 150mm or 250mm lenses. I know that the top vignettes on the edge and I got used to that quickly. Since you are of the wide angle persuasion not having the gliding mirror will not be a problem for you.

The other option for a "24mm equivalent lens on a 35mm camera" the 903 SWC [38mm Biogon lens] would be nice, but may be as much or almost as much a bank breaker as the 40mm lens.

Steve
 
stever said:
I recommend that you go with the 50mm CF lens [multicoated and a newer shutter than a C lens].

The other option for a "24mm equivalent lens on a 35mm camera" the 903 SWC [38mm Biogon lens] would be nice, but may be as much or almost as much a bank breaker as the 40mm lens.

Steve
Click to expand...

C lenses are also available with T* multicoating so that does not require a CF. What I forgot to mention: a C50 requires specific drop-in filters held in place with a retaining ring or the sunshade. While this works perfectly fine (I used a C50 T* for years) having the B60 filters on the CF50 is just more convenient. B60 also fits every other lense I own, except the CF40 of course. For de C150 I have a B50-B60 converter ring, original Hasselblad, EUR10 at a camera fair.

While an SWC is without doubt a fine camera with gorgeous optics, it is not an SLR and you only have one lens which is not removable. Once you are used to exact composing on a focusing screen going back to the finder on an SWC is just not it. At least not for me. Plus that the 38mm is really wide, and the option to use a 50mm is essential in my view.

Wilko


Wilko
 
There is much to say for using 40 mm lenses that fit the 500 series bodies.

On the other hand a SWC also offers point and shoot with often amazing results.
The camera is as quiet as later Leica M models and attracts less attention in crowds because it is small.

That option is just one of the many advantages of the SWC.
IQ is superb, distortion is neglectible.
That is another good reason to decide for the SWC.
I got a few starting with the Supreme Wide Angle made in 1954.
Images from that camera are in no way less good than those from any later SWC including the 903/905 versions.
The SWC was a lucky strike made possible by a unique lens design and the initiative from Zeiss to have Hasselblad make a body for it.

At the 1954 Photo Kina in Germany the Supreme Wide Angle was introduced by Victor Hasselblad personally.
 
But what about Prisms !?

Hi everybody and thank you all so much for educating me.

I'm pretty much set on a 501cm, really on reasons that I'd be able to get a relatively new one built in the late 90's for not too much money. Also, it's a mechanical camera with less components (for example, I don't need a motordriven hasselblad.....).

The back has been pretty much decided on - an A12.

It's down to lenses and prisms. I have a Sekonic Spot meter and am very happy using that. Prisms, I could go for a fully manual, no fuss, prism (a PM-5) - so would there be any benefit (which at the moment I cannot think of) in getting one with an inbuilt meter ??

So, it's really down to Prisms and Lens.

Regarding my own 35mm shooting style, a 24mm is my 'standard' lens (it is what I use for almost all my shots). I hardly ever use the 50mm standard on a 35mm camera. I also, don't like carrying lots of lenses. So I'm a one lens man ! So I really anticipate a Hasselblad with just ONE lens.

What I'd be after is a quality lens but without demolishing the bank balance.

Also, I'd read about an eyepiece attachment which is supposed to really help with focusing, I don't know what it's called, it may be one of those chimney finders, do people find those indispensable ??

Thanks for all the advices - it really is appreciated.

Kindest regards,

Jez


P.S. Poorly worded post I know - multi-tasking isn't working well today !
 
The 40 mm lens is what you are after looking at the preffered focal length in 35 mm that is.

It starts with C lenses in the sixties, large pieces for glass with a 100 mm front element.

The later CF(E) 40 mm is smaller weighs 400 grs less and an improved version in the optical sense. This lens has floating elements to be pre set manually
Filters for CF(E) lense are easier to find.

Last 40 mm is the 40 mm IF version.
This is the last upgraded design from Carl Zeiss for Hasselblad cameras.
Again a heavy lens, heavier than the CF versions but with more resolution at the cost of hiogher distortion.
No doubt this choice was made with digital in mind.
It has floating elements that are set by focusing. No extra manually pre set lens group any more.

Prices go from 400 GBP for a decent C lens to 3000+ GBP for a used IF version.

Keep in mind Carl Zeiss made only two sorts of lenses: very good ones and even better ones.
Images from early 40 mm C lenses are still very good and impressive for anybody who cares to give these oldtimers a chance to proof what they are capable of.
 
Jez(UK) said:
Hi everybody and thank you all so much for educating me.

I'm pretty much set on a 501cm, really on reasons that I'd be able to get a relatively new one built in the late 90's for not too much money. Also, it's a mechanical camera with less components (for example, I don't need a motordriven hasselblad.....).

The back has been pretty much decided on - an A12.

It's down to lenses and prisms. I have a Sekonic Spot meter and am very happy using that. Prisms, I could go for a fully manual, no fuss, prism (a PM-5) - so would there be any benefit (which at the moment I cannot think of) in getting one with an inbuilt meter ??

What I'd be after is a quality lens but without demolishing the bank balance.

Also, I'd read about an eyepiece attachment which is supposed to really help with focusing, I don't know what it's called, it may be one of those chimney finders, do people find those indispensable ??

Thanks for all the advices - it really is appreciated.

Kindest regards,

Jez


P.S. Poorly worded post I know - multi-tasking isn't working well today !
Click to expand...

Prism with builtin meter is quite practical, especially when using filters (like a pola, quite useful when doing landscapes. I found I hardly use my Gossen handheld meter anymore with the 45degr prism.

Not too sure about the focusing aid you mention? There is one that can be mounted on the prism, but overall that is plain awkward if you ask me. In any case, landscapes tend to be at infinity.

As for using a single lens: then you should really really compare the 50 and the 40. I'm a wide-angle addict like you, but I consider the 50 much more general purpose. The 50 as an added bonus is less likely to make the bank manager frown..

So, I suggest to go and borrow/rent a 50 and a 40 and try them side by side.

Wilko
 
I highly recommend a prism with a meter such as the PME. They are fairly cheap and very accurate. When I need a spot meter, I use my Nikon F100 in the spot meter mode as my spot meter.

Steve
 
Pme 45

Not primarily meant as part of a starter kit but the PME 45 offers integral, incident and spotmetering.

At 600 to 1000 euro not a bargain but without doubt the best and most versatile meter for Hasselblad V series cameras.

NLA as a new item from Hasselblad, good ones without signs of prior use are getting rare.
 
Thanks again everyone.

Thanks for the prism suggestion Polypal, it's nice to know exactly which model prism is suggested (I'd seen that the PM-51 was not too expensive and possible in my price range).

I'm not sure what I'll end up getting in terms of final kit but I'll certainly keep you guys posted.

For sure it's going to be a 501cm, A-12. That's all I know at this stage !!

The prism, I'm very tempted to just get the meterless variety - just simply because it'll be cheaper, one less thing to concern myself with during exposure setup and also will force me to use my sekonic !

As wbulte says, if I can borrow or rent a couple of lenses before I buy, this would be the most ideal. But in my mind, I believe it'll be the 50mm as; it isn't too extreme a lens and it falls more into my price range.

So far I haven't mentioned how much my budget is - about £1000, but if I could get something around £800 I'd be very happy. Am I being realistic ??

501cm / A12 / PM-5 / 50mm Distagon CLFE ??

Do Hasselblad's have special tripod requirements ??

And very finally, and slightly off topic, regarding developing the negatives for 120 film, what developing tanks could people recommend ?? I've always used Paterson (but of course for 35mm film).

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
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