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Viewfinder

Hey again,

I would like to ask, how do you focus with your Hasselblad 500 series? I use that normal waist level viewfinder but it is really a nightmare to focus accurately, so i don't know what to use or get to increase the accuracy of focusing with this body series [i have 501CM], my shots are just a luck to be focused fine, i do my best but i really don't like this way of focusing all the time and not sure about it.
 
I have no problems focusing with the WL finder but I use the right diopter to match my vision. I had a PME45 finder with the magnifier when I needed to focus the 110/2 wide open and that was very helpful.
 
Hasselblad used to supply a good range of diopter lenses for the later model WLF.
That supply has dries up now.
I have a selection of correction lenses for the WLF in stock should you want one.
Check the cross hairs or other lines of the focussing glass you are using. They should appear tack sharp with the magnifier in use.


Vic.
 
Not bad to try 4x4 viewfinder. I have the PME too. Not easy to focus.

Perhaps it s good not using AF gears as it s difficult to return to manual focus. However sometime, manual focussing is the only way to get sharp pictures. I never succed to focus with the sceen given with CFV 39 as microprisms and stigmometer hide where the focusing is. I mean that to focus I watch where on the picture the sharp aera is and then turn the ring right or left to get the sharp on what is important (for portraits). Anyway, the DOF is so thin, that sometime sharp portrait is imposible: one of the 2 eyes is sharp, not both. With digital, even at 11 it seams not enought to have all the face and ears sharp.
For portrait its not the face that must be focused, its the eyes. So I focus on one eye than to the second one and then go between this 2 positions. Hard to believe that AF does the same.
Easy when the subject is at one or two meters, hard to do it when the subject is 4 meters away. If you crop a 39Mpix portrait taken at 4m with a 100mm at 5.6, you need anyway to be able to focus on one eye not on face.
Not easy.
 
Hasselblad used to supply a good range of diopter lenses for the later model WLF.
That supply has dries up now.
I have a selection of correction lenses for the WLF in stock should you want one.
Check the cross hairs or other lines of the focussing glass you are using. They should appear tack sharp with the magnifier in use.


Vic.
I will give it a look and see, but which diopter is good to choose?
 
Not bad to try 4x4 viewfinder. I have the PME too. Not easy to focus.

Perhaps it s good not using AF gears as it s difficult to return to manual focus. However sometime, manual focussing is the only way to get sharp pictures. I never succed to focus with the sceen given with CFV 39 as microprisms and stigmometer hide where the focusing is. I mean that to focus I watch where on the picture the sharp aera is and then turn the ring right or left to get the sharp on what is important (for portraits). Anyway, the DOF is so thin, that sometime sharp portrait is imposible: one of the 2 eyes is sharp, not both. With digital, even at 11 it seams not enought to have all the face and ears sharp.
For portrait its not the face that must be focused, its the eyes. So I focus on one eye than to the second one and then go between this 2 positions. Hard to believe that AF does the same.
Easy when the subject is at one or two meters, hard to do it when the subject is 4 meters away. If you crop a 39Mpix portrait taken at 4m with a 100mm at 5.6, you need anyway to be able to focus on one eye not on face.
Not easy.

For now i have only 50mm which is so wide for portraits and focusing can't be clear as i see the face are all in focus including the eyes, will see when i will get longer lens for headshots closer then i may have an issue with focusing.
 
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