250mm C question

[aleksmiesak]

I just got a great deal on a 250mm C for my 501CM. I didn't do much research on the lens other then price comparison. The glass looked in great shape and I trusted the rest would be just fine. Well I didn't realize that on the C lens the shutter speed ring and aperture are locked together. As far as I can tell there is no way to adjust the f/stop and shutter separately. Also, the B setting is part of the green lettering and it doesn't look possible that I could set the lens on B for long exposures. And considering that I got the lens for some experimental long exposures I'm a little bummed about it. If anyone has seen a version of a manual for that lens that would be helpful, so far my search came up empty.

Like I said, it was a great deal and the glass is spotless so I am sure I'll find a good purpose for it. But I just wanted to run it by the experts here and see if what I've experienced so far is accurate or if I am missing something. Is there a way to control the shutter independent of aperture?

Thanks!
Aleks

 

[David Sw]

Yeah, those old C lenses and their coupled control rings. The good news is that they are independently adjustable...the bad news is that is involves some wiggling, jiggling and pulling and pushing. (sorry for the technical description)

Seriously, if it's functional you will find one of the rings will "pull back" relative to the other one and rotate allowing adjustment.

I still fight with my 250 every time I use it. I haven't used it enough to have committed the required movements to muscle memory yet.

That said. I love the lens and am always finding shots it's required for that didn't exist before I bought the lens. (a good deal for $200).

I expect one of the experienced members will come up with a better, more easily understood description of how it really works. And it really does work if the lens is functioning properly.

Dave

 

[Olof B]

There is a vertical tab in front of the "Syncro" lettering at the right hand side of the lens (seen from behind, as mounten on the camera body held in your left hand)
This tab shalll be pushed rearwards to un-couple speed and aperture rings.
Don't push the small tab between Syncro and Compur rearwards, as this depth-of-feld tab shall be pushed radially (to wards the center of the lens) The stopping down of the lens is reseted when the aperture is fully opened.


And the green lettering after B is a calculating help for long exposures.


You can download manuals (for free, but you have to register) at www.hasselblad.com
I suggest that you look at the manual for 500C as this covers the C-lenses.


And I actually miss the coupled shutter speed/aperture on my non-C-lenses.

 

[blowupster]

I never wanted a 250/5.6 lesn as their FTM curves are not as good as other lenses and I do not realy need tele lenses. However 2 months ago I saw one for good price of 1963 in a real good condition. I got this one. I discover that the inside of the lens was the same in 1956 and today (ok not the Superacromat one). Only simple coated for early one instead of mutli-coated for T*.
I used it with my CFV-39 and was surprised by the quality. Far enought for portrait.
One month later I got another one (not so beautyfull indeed) from 1957 as this may be the first year of official production of this C lens( in fact this lens exited allready in F mode).
So very proud to take picture with this time-proof lens. They works differently than CF lens, perhaps a littel more rude for fingers at the begining.

 

[gradasso]

Using C lenses from many years I find the coupling of speed/opening rings not too difficult to employ after a little practice. The only annoyance is that, having stopped down the lens to control DOF, one has to turn again the opening ring to focus at full aperture - that is not possible without disengaging the rings if the light value is, e.g., 15 where 1/500 is coupled with f/8. This requires a waste of time.
But what a lens the Sonnar 250 mm! Try it for "masculine" portraits and you will enhance every wrinkle and hair of beard. And the lens is perfectly usable with handheld camera - I tried successfully even 1/60, but 1/125 is for me an exposure time of absolute security. Right hand under the camera body and left hand under the lens!
Good light and good pictures!

Ale

 

[Fliger747]

I lugged one of these around the Arctic, back packing and floating for many years and only recently superseded it with a late model CF that was a really good deal. They are pretty sharp lenses, at least sharp enough to test the solidity of your tripod and release. Ansel Adams used the 250 C lens to take his Moonrise over Halfdome photo. In some ways I always liked the coupled rings as it was easy to change to the right F stop for DOF and stay on the EV value. As the meters I used displayed in EV, as does the meter prism, this was convinent.

Cheers: T

 

[blowupster]

1 , 2 and 3
Well as I discovered that the actual optical formula is the same as early one, I got a 250/5.6 of 1953 with my new 1000F (1952). Still waiting for 2 220 Velvia films made last week as it's not possible to use my CFV digital with 1000F body until now. One more conceptual bug of the CFV-39 to correct at home.

 

[aleksmiesak]

Thanks so much for all of your feedback. You have made me feel a lot more comfortable with this lens. I still can't dislodge the rings on the lens (might need to send it out for service and see what's up) but I'll give it a try as a coupled and not let it bug me. It's pretty embarrassing that I have been logging this lens with me for a few weeks and still haven't given it a chance. This might change this weekend

 

[Fliger747]

If the rings are stuck together there might be an issue, but they do not decouple per se, you push sideways on the small silver tab and can then move one against the other till you achieve the correct EV value, and can then move them together for any combination that gives the EV value (ie EV 13 or whatever). I actually liked the system except for the smallishness of the tab and rings.

Good luck! T

 

[Alionic]

I have this lens too, I had no idea it could make good male portraits, ironically enough that is exactly what I am shooting this weekend & I have taken the 250mm out of semi-retirement and it is loaded into my case ready for the weekend.

I used the lens for wildlife (Deer @ Richmond park), looking forward to the results, I do, however, have my 120MAKRO in the case just in case..