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Can my 500ELM go digital?

T

TonyM

New Member
My daughter just informed me that she read I can get a back for my 500ELM and make it digital????? Are those backs expensive? Can you really turn an old 500CM or 500ELM into a digital camera? She also mentioned you can shoot single photos since one of the backs holds only one shot??? I am new to digtial and know nothing. I have put off buying digital cameras. But if I can simply put a back on my 500ELM and turn it into a digtial, I find that exciting. Has anyone any idea how much the least expensive back costs and what it is called?
 
Yes you can go digital simply by fitting a digital back to your camera.
Early digital backs can be found around 1000 USD.
Keep in mind these backs are large and slow. Besides that they offer what we now consider as low grade solution, i.e. less than 10 Mp.

The current Hasselblad 50 Mp digital back offers excellent solution with a near full frame sensor compared to the 6x4.5 format.
Only disadvantage is the price at 15000 USD.
 
I was told that 10 Mp is all one really needs. My friend has a Leica Digilux2 that shoots about 5 MP and the results are great. Is 10 MP on a Hasselblad better than 10 MP on a Nikon D40x since the screen area is bigger or is it? Would shooting 10MP on my 500 ELM beat a DSLR? You indicated it is slow. I have used a 4x5 for 52 years and sometimes an 8x10 view, so I am used to slow. Actually, I think I would do better having one shot since I would really take my time before shooting. I am very old fashioned. I even like single shot black powder rifles. What were these old backs that cost $1000 called? I will look for them on Ebay in the future.Why were they slow? Did they save the image to a card or computer? You will have to excuse me since this is all new to me. It gives me something to play with. Anyway, I can still shoot film (YES !) in my magnificent 500 ELMs and my 500 CM.
 
Pixel count is not the only criteria to judge image quality although it limits the maximum size of prints.

Older digital backs are meant for studio use only due to their set up and ancilleries needed.

The first dedicated DB for Hasselblad by Leaf had only 4 Mp but offered a larger dynamic range than film.
In the mid eighties quite a few photographers took a mortgage to finance these backs.
Some guys in advertising recovered their investment of 30.000 USD within a year.

My advice is to stay clear from older digital gear unless you know what you are up to.
No service, no support from manufacturers make this a difficult option with mostly disappointments.
 
Hi Tony. I don't know what your budget is, but all things considered, I would suggest you look for a used Hasselblad CFV digital back (16 megapixels). Keep in mind that the sensors on these digital backs are not "full frame" 6x6 cm, but something smaller, so there is a "crop factor" which must be applied to get the equivalent focal length for the lenses you currently use on your 500ELM. Might be alot cheaper to get a good scanner.....I have the Epson V750 Pro and it works very well.....but I also have the CFV-II digital back and never plan to part with it.....though with any luck, I'll someday add a full frame square back from Hasselblad to my arsenal of photographic tools. :)

Gary
Eagle River, Alaska
 
Maybe someday, the Japanese will invent a digital back that looks like a regular film back, with a viewing screen on the back and a small card inside. Just pop the card in a reader and download to computer. I would pay $2000 for such a back if it had 25 or more MP. Maybe new technology the future will make such affordable backs available to us poor guys.

I willl not sell the wife, car and house for a new back. I am happy with film.

Once again, thanks for your expert advice. I will stay clear of the old backs.
 
Hello Tony,

Thanks for the trust in my judgement.

The back you describe is already available, custom built for the V series with a display, storage card etc.
It is a real steal at 16.000 USD but for that money you get 50 Mp and a lot of technology. Not the 2000 USD you had in mind though.
The ball does not stop at the price mentioned, you also need a fast and large PC with lots of storage space and a strong graphic card.

Nothing wrong with film.
It is the easiest way to store images under all temperatures.
Below zero a DB will behave irratic, film is still going strong.
Imagine what people would say if film had arrived after all that digipower we are now used to. Film would have gotten lots of followers because it works under all cicumstances.


Paul
 
Paul,

I think I have the solution for now. I bought an Epson scanner and printer. I am going to scan my negatives. That way I will have a digital file and can print in color myself without using the lab.

Black and white is a piece of cake. I have been developing film since 1951 when I was in the Boy Scouts. I love developing my 4x5 negatives and now, I will do the same for black and white 120 film. Very economical to do in HC110 or Rodinal. I tried yesterday to buy some 220 in black and white, but was told they do not make it anymore. I wonder who was the genius responsible for that. I sure miss my 120 Verichrome-Pan black and white film.

I bought two 220 backs for my 500ELMs. I can still use them. Kodak still makes color in 220. I like the idea of having 24 exposures in my camera for weddings and events that I do.
 
220 film is getting scarce no way around that. Please note you can use 120 film in your A24 backs with only one small disadvantage. You will lose the last frame due to wider spacing caused by the paper backing of the 120 film. There is no problem with focussing.
 
Thats great news. When using 120 in a 220 back, do you load it the same, and use the same black arrow on the film, lining it up with the same red arrow on the back? You crank it in the same? When are you aware you lose one shot?
 
Loading is the same but keep in mind to stop after 11 exp[osures. The A24 back will not block the release button because it is expecting to expose another 13 frames!
 
Does the film plane change? Since there is paper backing on 120, wouldn't the film be a hair closer to the lens? How about feeding problems? Would the film be in tighter and pass slower through the camera, being held by the side clamp tighter against the back plate?
 
TonyM said:
Does the film plane change? Since there is paper backing on 120, wouldn't the film be a hair closer to the lens? How about feeding problems? Would the film be in tighter and pass slower through the camera, being held by the side clamp tighter against the back plate?
Click to expand...

No, the paper backing does not matter. The film plane is on the emulsion side, not on the paper side ;-)

Would be bad news if it did matter, because it would mean you need paper backing thickness-controlled to be ~= 0.01mm
 
if you load the 120 in your 220-back about 1/4 turn shorter, you can get all 12 shots. i often do so and haven't lost a frame yet.

maarten.
 
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