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First ever roll - not good...

Can anyone help me out with this, please? I seem to have a faulty lens - or at least a faulty shutter within the lens.

The only film I could pick up yesterday to test this new system was some TMAx 400, which necessitated using 250th or 500th for the shots on the first roll - apart from the last one.

The film is still drying, but it's obvious that there is a serious problem with the shutter at the higher speeds. Therefore, the lens is going to have to go back to that famous dealer nr Inverness. This is a real pain, as it's Bank Holiday weekend, and I have lots of time to test and play with the new kit.

Can anyone confirm, from this pretty rubbish shot of the negs drying that this is indeed, a faulty shutter?

Thanks very much for any help you can offer

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Hello Andy,

I understand your disappointment.
Please keep in mind you are operating a camera that is about 25 years old with possibly not a clear service record.

High speed failure of the leaf shutter is very uncommon not to say highly unlikely.

From what I see I would say the film back you are using is having problems with the light seal.

You can check the magazine quite easily yourself:
Remove the dark slide and keep the film frame part of the back under a light source with the opening for the darkslide towards you.
Shield light coming from the lamp by holding the dark slide at a 90° angle with the film back.
The opening should not show any light coming through.

This kind of failure often happens with older film backs that have not been used for a while.

You will find a kit with seal and dark slide for sale from eye.balls at a certain auction side.
It is more economical to order only the seal kit if your dark slide is not bend or damaged.
Changing the seal is a job most people can handle.
All you need is a small screwdriver, some patience and 15-20 minutes.

Mr. Dellera (eye.balls) in London is a trustworthy camera repair man with good knowledge of V series cameras in case you consider having the kit serviced.


Vic.
 
Thanks guys - just jumping to a probably wrong conclusion. I have had sticking shutters on my M2 and IIIf before now.

I reckon it probably is the light leak. I can see light under the black frame where the slide goes in when I hold the back to the light. I will order some new seals from the US this evening, and in the meantime, tape the joint between the back and the body with black insulation tape.

I am meeting a friend with a known good back on Monday, so that should confirm.
 
I can see the frame edge being clear from light, so the problem is not in the film back i will guess.

What makes you think is the shutter?

What else could it be?

THere is no light seal between the back and the body - how come that isn't vulnerable to light penetration?
 
could be the back flaps (secondary shutter)
maybe they are not closing properly.

Thus light passes through the lens, past the mirror and leaks to the film before exposure
 
When looking through the camera throat, with the mirror locked up, I shone a Maglite through the light seal. I could see the light at the back of the camera

I am borrowing a known good back tomorrow, and will seal the slot with tape too. I'm sure I can get to the bottom of it tomorrow. It's a cheap thing to fix if it is the seal.

The body has only had 300 rolls through it and has been very well looked after.

Learning a lot this weekend!
 
It seems you are on the right track.
Hasselblad users accept limited seal life as one of the few weak points of the system.
Although prices for the seal parts have gone up recently it is still affordable to replace the seals every couple of years.

I also fell into this trap when recently shooting my first roll of film with a used E12 back and a 203FE camera.
Simply did not think to check the condition of the seal before the shoot.

Just too anxious to find out what comfort auto exposure brings with 6x6 photography.


Vic.
 
Without doubt a film back seal problem.

Get this sorted and you'll fire on all four cylinders.

Get through the learning curve of new equipment. Then enjoy the enhanced image control the GG offers and the greater image quality the film size and better lens bokeh provides.
 
Well...

Did a full test in a studio this morning. My back, body and lens. My friend's body and lens. We have discovered that it's definitely the back that's at fault. Have also established that the lens focusses perfectly, which is helpful.

I have decided to return it to ffordes and source an alternative from a dealer that I can actually talk to.

Many thanks to you all for your help with this.

Onwards and upwards... :)
 
Shot 5 rolls today at a classic car rally. Have just processed two of them, in identical manner. Same developer, stop and fix. Same size tank. Everything.

One is almost completely fogged (including the film beyond the negative area) and one is perfect.

In all my years of processing my 35mm myself, I have never, ever had a fogged film.

This is a very steep learning curve here, and could easily be very frustrating.
 
Hello Andy--

I once had a 500C/M body that had a rear shutter blind that did not close all of the way and caused film fog to different degrees with each shutter release. My repair person said that it was due to an interior rubber grommet that had gotten sticky with age and a CLA with grommet replacement solved the problem.
To check this out on your camera body, remove the back and release the shutter several times while watching the rear blinds. They must close completely each time or your film will be fogged. Since the film edge is not fogged it would seem that the problem is with the rear blinds.

Hope that this helps in your case.

Don
 
Thanks

The film edge IS fogged, so I am suspecting my loading technique.

I have played with the back-less body and the shutters do seem to be closing OK.
 
In all my years of processing my 35mm myself, I have never, ever had a fogged film.

This is a very steep learning curve here, and could easily be very frustrating.


We are here to help you overcome the problems you are confronted with.
Keep in mind virtually all users had some sort of starting problems with Hasselblad V series cameras.
No I will not tell you the stupid mistakes I made years ago.

I am sure you will learn how to handle the backs and load films without problems.
The world record for loading an A12 back is 17 seconds.....
If you are not that fast and need to change film quickly simply get a couple more magazines and load them before the shoot.


Vic.
 
What else could it be?

THere is no light seal between the back and the body - how come that isn't vulnerable to light penetration?

The film back-to-body join has a serpentine slot around it so the light would have to go around 4 corners t get through. As long as the matt finish isn't completely gone then it should be okay.

Jason
 
QUOTE=andybarton;40795]One is almost completely fogged (including the film beyond the negative area) and one is perfect.

In all my years of processing my 35mm myself, I have never, ever had a fogged film.[/QUOTE]



Monsieur Barton, if this is the first time you've left the tube out of the developing tank you've led a charmed life. Sadly, you cannot recover from this minor error.

Removing film cassette from the film back without winding through is your next lesson ! :)
 
Schoolboy error on the film.... (hangs head in shame...)

I had forgotten to put the reel on the black spindle - all that lovely light from the room was entering the tank through the fill hole...

Sorry for wasting your time, folks :(

My scanner arrives tomorrow, so I am looking forward to scanning some of the film that I DIDN'T ruin myself ;)
 
That explains it.

It was about the most massive "light leak" from a film back I ever saw......

Show us some first results now!



Vic.
 
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