What's new
Medium Format Forum

Register a free account now!

If you are registered, you get access to the members only section, can participate in the buy & sell second hand forum and last but not least you can reserve your preferred username before someone else takes it.

Suggested Hasselblad for a Hasselblad Novice ??

It is the lens that determines the IQ of the image.
I agree a 501CM is a good choice for a starter kit.
With an eye on your budget the 50 mm Distagon will have to be the non floating elements version:

501CM 450-550
50 mm CF Distagon 400-500
A12 model with DS keeper 150-200

The 501CM and late model film back are a good choice because they are younger and are likely to be in better condition.
Older bodies and film backs are still being used with excellent results.
Key word is well serviced gear here.

An older body and film back in well serviced condition leaves room for the much improved FLE version of the 50 mm Distagon:

500 CM last version / 503 CX 300-350
50 mm FLE Distagon 500-600
A12 1985/1995 range 100-125

Quite a number of older Hasselblad bodies are still going strong thanks to the services of experienced qualified technicians.
Not to mention the increasing number of well restored collectible older cameras from the pre 500 era, 1949-1957!
 
polypal said:
It is the lens that determines the IQ of the image.
I agree a 501CM is a good choice for a starter kit.
With an eye on your budget the 50 mm Distagon will have to be the non floating elements version:

501CM 450-550
50 mm CF Distagon 400-500
A12 model with DS keeper 150-200

The 501CM and late model film back are a good choice because they are younger and are likely to be in better condition.
Older bodies and film backs are still being used with excellent results.
Key word is well serviced gear here.

An older body and film back in well serviced condition leaves room for the much improved FLE version of the 50 mm Distagon:

500 CM last version / 503 CX 300-350
50 mm FLE Distagon 500-600
A12 1985/1995 range 100-125
Click to expand...

Alternatively: 501CM, 50FLE, no prism. Use the WLF for the time being, given that a handheld meter is available already.

This is what I would do.

Wilko
 
wbulte said:
Alternatively: 501CM, 50FLE, no prism. Use the WLF for the time being, given that a handheld meter is available already.

This is what I would do.

Wilko
Click to expand...

Hi Wilko,

Thats a great idea but isn't part of the problem there though that the image I will see will be reversed ?? (sorry, I did say I'm a novice !).

Kindest regards,

Jez
 
Jez,

We are here to help you but the choice is yours.
Having a choice does not make things easier though.......
 
Jez(UK) said:
Hi Wilko,

Thats a great idea but isn't part of the problem there though that the image I will see will be reversed ?? (sorry, I did say I'm a novice !).

Kindest regards,

Jez
Click to expand...

It will be left-right reversed, yes. For landscapes that does not hurt too much, following a moving object however is likely to be a pain. At least I never got the hang of it :)

My reasoning is this: go for the more modern body and more modern lens at the expense of the ergonomics a prism finder offers you. You can always add a prism later, whereas upgrading to a newer spec lens and/or body will make you loose money. I've been there..

If worst come to worst you could for the time being use a brand new meter-less Kiev prism (sorry Paul...) which is a direct clone of a Hasselblad NC-2. See here for an example. These Kiev clones are cheap, I guess like 70-80 quid or so.

Wilko
 
Is this a good deal ??

I'm being offered the following kit for £2000. All has been described as MINT condition (though I yet to see any of it).

Please could you good folk advise me if this would be a good deal and worth going for ??

"Hasselblad 500CM (black body) with waistlevel finder
Carl Zeiss 50 f4 Distagon T* Lens
Carl Zeiss 80 f2.8 Planar T*
Carl Zeiss 120 f5.6 Planar T*
Carl Zeiss 250 f5.6 Sonnar
Carl Zeiss 350 f5.6 Tele-Tessar
Prism viewfinder
Plus accessories"

Remembering that originally, I was after a 501CM, A12 Back, 50mm CF at least and a basic prism, I was expecting to pay around £1500.

What puts me off (remember I'm a novice here) on the above set is that these lenses aren't CF and that the body isn't a 501cm. From what I feel as well, I wouldn't be using hardly any of those extra lenses (so maybe I'd be able to sell a few and reduce my total outlay).

Any advice ??
 
Do no buy what you do not need unless you want to start trading Hasselblad gear.
Like using it, trading Hasselblad takes some training.
You will probably loose money in the process of learning.

If I remember correctly you were after a nice wide angle lens with a 501CM body with A12 and possibly a prism.

That is a good idea.
Older equipment can be just as good provided it has been serviced properly and did not do 20 films a day during its first five years as a pro camera.

Stick with the original idea: body, 50 mm WA lens and film back.
Get yourself a nice prism and start shooting instead of wondering how to unload gear you do not want.
What has been offered to you as a kit could be worth the asking price depending on the condition.
Condition can only be judged with the gear in your hands.

Why not take a look at the classified section, there are some kits and wide angle lenses available. Buying from forum users who know their gear is an advantage.
There is no pressure you can ask questions and negotiate more relaxed.

The 501CM you are after is a sought after camera that will not stay for sale long all depending on the asking price of course.


Paul
 
Acute Matte and prisms

If you do buy a metered prism and an Acute Matte screen, be careful to get a prism which expects the Acute Matte. The older prisms were tuned to the older, darker focusing screens.

You might also want to consider the 2000-series of cameras, although getting one with a perfect shutter might take a little patience. The F/FE lenses are very nice, and not so expensive due to the missing shutter (the 2000-series has a focal plane shutter, not a disadvantage for landscape).

If you do go this route, I have a really nice F 50/2.8 which I could sell you, since I have moved up to the FE (I hope to buy a 203FE or 205FCC later).
 
WLF vs Prism

I find that I don't use my prism much at all (it was part of a trade and isn't in great shape, but it does appear to be functional). The waist level finders are much easier to use -- and you'll learn to track backward.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top